Thursday, 17 April 2014

classics are the best


It is not International Sazerac Day. 

Perhaps it should be.

Since 2008, the Sazerac has been the official cocktail of New Orleans. But it has been around for a lot longer. In fact, it is sometimes referred to as the oldest known American cocktail, with origins in pre-civil war New Orleans.

But there are three things that really set the Sazerac apart and make it particularly appealing is that it uses rare, strongly flavoured ingredients - including an obscure brand of bitters and absinthe -, there's a special process in making the drink and it has an intriguing history.

Antoine Peychaud created the drink in 1838 in a French Quarter bar in New Orleans. The bar was named after a popular French brandy, Sazerac-de-Forge et fils. In 1873, the drink was changed when American Rye Whiskey replaced the cognac due to problems in the vineyards of France, ironically due to an infestation of the American aphid, phylloxera vastatrix. So this little American fly meant a more American influence on the drink. In 1873, bartender, Leon Lamothe added a dash of absinthe to the mix. Who knows why, but I am sure it was absolutely inspired. In 1912 absinthe was banned and, in some kind of full bar-tending circle, Peychaud substituted his special bitters in its place.

And I like that it's a little bit tricky to make. You need two chilled glasses which you coat in respective flavours: sugar and bitters in one, rye whiskey or cognac in the other. Then you add the whiskey or cognac to the bitters and then coat the empty glass with the absinthe and put them all together into the first, now absinthe coated glass with lemon peel. I like that the process is complicated and takes time. You have to be patient. And appreciate the history. And really, it is absolutely worth the complication.

At Le Bon Ton in Collingwood, you can decide if you feel more Frenchy or more New York, which will dictate the choice of cognac or rye in the mix. Surprisingly perhaps, I went New York. I'm sure my recent Carrie Bradshaw assimilation is to blame. Absinthe was absolutely there. And a lemon twist. And a floaty old school feeling that I completely recommend.

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