Last night I got
a train and a tram and crossed the river from North to South and hopped off at
Middle Park. Which is not the same thing as Middle Earth at all, but it does
exist.
The Middle Park
Hotel was hosting a dinner showcasing the outstanding food, wine and produce
from the greater region Daylesford.
Annie Smithers, and I’m going to say, doyenne of growing and
cooking good food, joined forces with Michael Dhillon of Bindi Wines in the
Macedon Ranges.
Annie trained under Stephanie Alexander, whose
uncompromising dedication to good food has shaped her life and changed Australia's
eating habits. Author of fourteen books, chef and owner of two
renowned Melbourne restaurants and founder of the Stephanie Alexander Kitchen
Garden programme in schools, Stephanie Alexander was the perfect mentor for
Annie Smithers. After working in a number of top Melbourne restaurants, Annie
opened her own place in Kyneton, Victoria, in 2005. Last year, she handed that
over to new owners and moved down the road to Trentham to cook out of a tiny
restaurant and to Malmesbury where she grows the vegetables and fruit she
cooks with.
Annie is an
extremely modest and appreciative chef. She said she had dragged herself out of
the mud of Malmesbury to come to Middle Park to cook, but that she hadn’t been
the only one cooking the dinner. She
described her night as working with a beautiful team of men, which she is not
used to because she cooks on her own. She thanked the Middle Park Hotel for
inviting her and Michael to come down and cook tea.
Cooking tea is what she
says she does.
Annie describes
her food style as one that she has moved to after many years in the restaurant
industry. Thirty years of being on the stove, in fact. An awfully long time,
she reflects. She has done a lot of restaurant cooking and about 5 years ago started
gardening to grow produce for the restaurant, which has changed her world in an
extraordinary and very beautiful way. She feels as though she has been taken
back to the very roots of classic provincial European cooking; food that’s
based on beautiful produce, good ethics, good farming practices, good animal
husbandry, all the things she is really passionate about. It’s food that is,
and here, she pauses to find the right word for her food…it’s dinner, it’s tea.
It’s not fussed with, it’s not ramped up. It’s something that’s comfortable.
It’s something that’s convivial and it’s something to share with friends and
family. And in the current world of food where there’s a lot of extraordinary
performance art, good old-fashioned dinner still has its place.
One of the great
things about what Annie does is the fact that she grows about 90% of the fruit and vegetables
used in her restaurant. So she knows everything she cooks with from a seed right through to
the finished product. This creates a level of respect, the appreciation of how
hard it is to grow food. But there is also a sense of how easy it is. And
anyone, anywhere, whether they have a window box or they have a bit of dirt in
their backyard can know the joy and pride of putting something in the ground
and seeing it all the way through to the dinner plate.
Matching food to
wine or wine to food? For Annie, Michael’s wines are extraordinary. She
describes them as having a complexity and a love that is unmatched in the
region. She recounts ringing him and asking what he imagines might go with
each of his wines. He gave her a bit of a rough idea and they took it from
there. Good food can stand alone and good wine can stand alone, but when the
two of them are matched carefully and lovingly together, it really is one of the
great things in the world.
When asked about
a must-have dish at Trentham restaurant, Annie couldn’t answer that. The menu
changes every week and it’s whatever is on on the day. It’s a tiny little
venture. Annie goes out there on a Thursday morning and she sees what she has
and says that hopefully she has enough it to pull it together and make
something beautiful.
If last night’s
dinner was anything to go by, I imagine she does.
The Dinner
Smoked Ocean
Trout, beetroot, apple and manglewurzel salad
2011 Bindi Composition Chardonnay
Roasted Hapuku,
Jerusalem artichoke purée, prosciutto
2011 Bindi Quartz Chardonnay
Quail, white
polenta, Roquefort, pear
2013 Bindi Dixon Pinot Noir
2011 Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir
Braised and
grilled lamb shoulder, roasted garlic
2009 Bindi Kaye Pinot Noir
Barossa valley
Cheese Company – “La Dame”
2011 and 2012 Bindi Pyrette Shiraz